8 World Premiere of the Geneva Watchmaker SIHH

From The Lightest Chronograph To The Blackest Material In The World

The world has not yet seen this, at least the world of watches. At the Geneva Watchmaking Fair in 2017, there was a regular firework of never seen what concerns materials, surface treatments or the maintenance-free.

Worldpremiere Watch # 1 From The SIHH 2017: Richard Mille RM 50-03 Tourbillon Split Seconds Chronograph Ultralight Mclaren F1

The skeleton hand-held caliber of the RM 50-03 Tourbillon Split Seconds Chronograph Ultralight McLaren F1 by Richard Mille is lighter than a single one. The only seven-gram light caliber – the euro-coin weighs 7.50 grams – is housed in a 49.65 millimeter on 44.50 millimeters of a material mix of titanium, carbon and graphene.Graphene is a modified form of carbon and six times lighter and 200 times more stable than steel. Thus, the trailing-hand chronograph with Tourbillon comes just 40 grams of total weight including the band, making it the lightest mechanical chronograph in the world. The material graph comes from automobile racing. The watch was developed in cooperation with McLaren-Honda. For 1.2 million euros one can secure one of the 75 flyweights. The buyer receives a model of a McLaren Honda racing car in 5: 1 format.

World Premiere Watch # 2 From The SIHH 2017: MCT The Sequential One S110 Evo Vantablack

Black as the night or even darker: The dial of the The Sequential One S110 Evo Vantablack from MCT consists of the same material “Vantablack”, which is to be the darkest material in the world. The substance Vantablack consists of carbon nanotubes and absorbs 99.965 percent of the incident light. The light is thereby almost not reflected. This makes it look like the MCT-S1.0 hand-lift caliber above the dial. The display of the hours alternately takes place on four prisms each, which are attached at three, six, nine and twelve o’clock. The DLC-coated titanium housing measures 45 to 45 millimeters in diameter and is limited to 10 copies. The Sequential One S110 Evo Vantablack costs 95,000 Swiss francs plus VAT.

World Premiere Watch # 3 From The SIHH 2017: Panerai Luminor Subermsible 1950 BMG-Tech

At Panerai , too , new materials will be the focus this year. The brand uses the so-called Bulk Metallic Glass, in which stainless steel and glass are mixed. In the process, the metal is added very late, the cooling time of the material mixture is too short to form a crystalline structure. There remains a chaotic atomic structure, which makes the material so resistant.According to Panerai, the material has high corrosion resistance, high hardness as well as impact resistance and resistance to magnetic fields. At the Luminor Subermsible 1950 BMG-Tech, the 47-millimeter housing as well as the elevator crown and crown protection bridge are made of the new material. The dive bezel, which is rotatable on one side, and the housing base, on the other hand, are made of titanium. The newly developed P.9010 automatic movement with its three- speed automatic transmission provides enough drive. The Luminor Subermsible 1950 BMG-Tech costs 9.900 euros.

World Premiere Watch # 4 From The SIHH 2017: Roger Dubuis Excalibur Quatuor Cobalt Micromelt

Even Roger Dubuis takes a different route in terms of housing material and Browsed in non-industry sectors for new opportunities. For its model Excalibur Quatuor Cobalt MicroMelt, the brand uses a material that has so far been used primarily in dentistry. The 48-millimeter housing is made of cobalt chrome. It is very hard, elastic and completely corrosion-free and is shaped by the manufacturing process “MicroMelt”. It also has a steel-gray color that combines Roger Dubuis with blue and red PVD coatings. Inside the watch, theRD101 hand-held caliper works with four restraints. It consists of 590 parts and, like all Roger Dubuis calibres, is awarded the Geneva seal. The Excalibur Quatuor Cobalt MicroMelt is available for only 8 copies at a price of 455,000 euros each.

Worldpremiere Clock # 5 From The SIHH 2017: Panerai Lab-ID Luminor 1950 Carbotech 3 Day S

Panerai offers a 50-year maintenance free of charge for the Lab-ID Luminor 1950 Carbotech 3 Days. There was never such a thing in the world of watches. According to pinckarddress, through the use of novel materials Panerai believes that he has realized the watchmaking dream of the lubrication-free watch. In the P.3001 / C manual hoist, circuit boards, bridges, spring houses, escapement and impact protection are made of materials and coatings with self- or dry lubrication. Therefore, you do not need any liquid lubricants. The 49 millimeters housing is made of Carbotech, a non-corrosive composite material based on carbon fibers. The sandwich dial is coated with carbon nanotubes for the first time. This gives it an extremely deep black hue. Due to the coating the dial can not be printed, so that all numbers are directly on the glass above the dial. The 50 copies of the maintenance-free watch cost 50,000 euros each.

World Premiere Watch # 6 From The SIHH 2017: Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Carbon

For the first time, Roger Dubuis is producing a complete movement made of carbon. TheExcalibur Spider Carbon has a skeleton housing, which is also made of the material carbon. The rest of the watch, in red and black, is made of titanium, has a DLC coating and has been combined with carbon, vulcanized rubber or red lacquer. The RD509 SQ isequipped with a circuit board, bridges and the upper Tourbillon cage made of the particularly hard T700 carbon. The Excalibur Spider Carbon with the world’s first movement made of carbon is only available in 28 specimens. The 45 millimeter clock costs 214,000 euros.

World Premiere Watch # 7 From The SIHH 2017: MCT Sequential Two 220 Bronze

The brand MCT, which has only existed since 2007, also attracts attention with its second model in terms of material. The Sequential Two 220 bronze, as its name suggests, is made of the seawater-resistant body material bronze. The special thing about the watch is, however, that the material does not have the usual patina by a special surface treatment, but should keep its color. Inside the 44.6 millimeter clock works the MCT52.1 manufactory caliber with automatic elevator. Also in this model, the hours are alternately displayed on one of four prisms at three, six, nine and twelve o’clock. Only 10 copies are available from the bronze watch. Cost: 79,000 Swiss Francs plus VAT.

World Premiere Watch # 8 From The SIHH 2017: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Frosted Gold

For the 40th anniversary of their Ladies’ Royal Oak, Audemars Piguet has come up withsomething special. The Royal Oak Frosted Gold owes its sparkling surface to a special treatment. The case and bracelet are hammered with a tool with a diamond tip, creating tiny notches and creating a sparkle. The new Frosted Gold collection was created in collaboration with the Florentine jewelry designer Carolina Bucci, who has been using this process for some time in her jewelery. In the 37-millimeter-sized white or rosegold, the3120 manufactures caliber with automatic elevator . The rose gold models cost 50.300 euros, the models in white gold 55.600 euros.

Gallery

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